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Will Ethanol Hurt My Classic Engine? Maybe

The high cost of gasoline and growing environmental concerns have trained more public attention in recent months on ethanol as a fuel alternative. The issue has moved on to classic car owners’ radar due to the possibility of a government mandate requiring the use of ethanol/gasoline blends (most likely at the 10% to 15% level) as part of a broader plan to lessen our national dependence on foreign oil. What, if anything would that do to the engine of your beloved classic and how would the use of such fuel affect your car’s performance?

Most media attention has been on E85, an 85% blend currently selling for approximately $2.66 a gallon. Many people do not realize, however, that E85 is less efficient than gasoline, so that consumers have to buy more to get the equivalent per gallon performance, making the actual price about $1.50 higher. The issue, therefore, is not necessarily one of fuel economy, but rather a measure to push the public farther away from the use of “pure” fossil fuels in their vehicles. First, let’s consider the fact that “ethanol” does not necessarily refer to one, standard type of fuel.

E85 is not the only ethanol available, nor is it necessarily the “best” blend. A study conducted last year on modern vehicles by the University of North Dakota Energy and Environmental Research Center and the Minnesota Center for Automotive Research suggested that an “optimal blend level” of ethanol and gasoline exists. Something more than E10 and less than E85 -- E20 or E30 being the most probably candidates -- delivers the greatest fuel economy and acceptably commensurate performance. This was found to be true even in vehicles that were not designed as “flex-fuel” models.

For muscle car enthusiasts, however, the question is, “Will that stuff hurt my engine?” After all, most car insurance quotes aren’t going to cover damage from ethanol use. Like most questions, there are degrees of debate about the answer to the ethanol question and myths abound. The safest answer on potential damage is, “Maybe, over time.” Running E10 in an engine that is well-tuned and maintained is probably perfectly safe. However, ethanol does have increased alcohol content and can create alkyl deposits that will erode fuel fittings and lines, damage the carburetor, and potentially the pistons. The higher the “E” mix, the higher the risk of such damage. Some engine experts even warn of potential fires under the hood.

But like most things, it’s a matter of degrees. One tank isn’t going to melt down your engine. Ethanol actually has a lower ignition point than gas. As for gaskets, seals, and rings, the rubber neoprene used for the last two decades is designed to be resistant to the kind of drying effect seen with ethanol fuel use. Additionally, newer engine components are more resistant to the corrosive effects of water in both ethanol and gasoline. It is possible, that if you choose to -- or if you’re forced to -- run ethanol mixtures in your classic, you will need to replace fuel lines and gaskets with those designed to handle the changed mixture. It comes down to knowing your own engine components.

For many drivers, however, a more burning question is, will I get any power out of this stuff? Again, it’s a measure of degrees. If you were using E100, you’d burn 34% more ethanol than gasoline to get the same amount of “oomph,” but in an ethanol-only engine, higher compression ratios allow for increased power output. In flexible fuel engines the tuning allows for the same output with either gasoline or an ethanol blend. If you compare the two fuels in terms of BTUs, a gallon of gasoline returns approximately 109,000 to 125,000 Btu while a gallon of ethanol is 76,000 to 80,000 Btu. So, bottom line, it takes roughly 1.53 gallons of ethanol to produce the same amount of energy as 1 gallon of gas and you’re not going to see the fuel’s best power output unless you’re dealing with an ethanol-only high compression engine. Since we’re going to hear a lot about alternative fuels here’s how the Btu comparison looks:

Gasoline 109,000 - 125,000 Btu
No. 2 Diesel 128,000 - 130,000 Btu
Biodiesel 117,000 0 120,000 Btu
CNG 33,000 -38,000 Btu @ 3000 psi
Ethanol (E85) 76,000 - 80,000 Btu>
Hydrogen 6,500 Btu @ 3000 psi
Liquified Petroleum Gas approx. 84,000 Btu
Methanol (M85) 56,000 to 66,000 Btu

 If using ethanol is a matter of choice, don’t bother. The minimal benefit gained in fuel economy and environmental friendly performance (read “reduced emissions”) from ethanol is probably not worth any potential danger to your engine or your own anxiety that such a thing might happen. Keeping the engine tuned to the highest level possible and in pristine operating condition will do as much or more to boost economy and performance than an attempted ethanol refit. If you’re forced to use some version of an ethanol blend, you’ll need to be more vigilant about your engine work, you’ll burn more fuel, and you probably won’t get as much power without some degree of engine modifications. For classic cars, ethanol won’t melt down the engines, but it will present a whole new gamut of performance and maintenance problems with which you’ll have to deal, all dependent on the make and model of your car.



 
   

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